Machu Picchu deserves a post all by itself. The train ride from Ollantaytambo was easy; the train is clean, modern and efficient and an hour and a half later I arrived in Machu Picchu Pueblo (also referred to as Agua Calientes). My entry time to MP was 7-8 a.m. and the 30 minute bus ride up to the entrance was organized and gave me a glimpse of the splendor to come!
Everywhere in Peru, it seems, means stairs and Machu Picchu is no exception. Just getting to the entrance and the initial lookout was challenging, especially with the altitude. We then headed to La Montana to do a hike up the mountain that that looks down on MP cuidad. This is also a timed entry and required an additional fee. Again the steepness coupled with the altitude made this very challenging even with me being an experienced hiker. The stone steps were various sizes and heights. In places the path is quite narrow but there were some fabulous viewpoints.
Once down the mountain, one must go up again to reach MP cuidad. But honestly MP is indescribable. The magnitude of the surrounding mountains and the architectural feat of what they Incas built (and at that altitude and steepness) is just mesmerizing. The Incas were amazingly smart and forward-thinking. The way they captured water, positioned their buildings and storage and determined their crops is like nothing else I have ever seen (and I have seen lots of ruins in multiple countries like Italy, Turkey and Greece).
After an overnight in Lima, I headed to the airport to fly to Cusco. I have to admit that I was worried about the altitude at 11,000 feet and how I would react. When I landed I immediately got a headache but proceeded with my itinerary. I visited Sacsayhuaman, Quenqo, Puca Pucara and Tambomachay, as well as, the Cathedral. This meant going to an even higher elevation and walking about five miles. I was feeling relatively fine…until that evening when my head felt like it would explode and I was throwing up. I frankly could barely move and ended up being hooked to an oxygen tank overnight. It was brutal and scary. I missed my tour the next morning and my visit to Machu Picchu was at risk with the timed entry system I needed to make my day/time or not get in. At noon I decided to catch a taxi for the hour and a half journey to the train station that would take me to the Machu Picchu Pueblo. I definitely was at “half mast” but was also motivated to see Machu Picchu.
My initial impressions of Cusco made me want to learn more. There was plenty of history but also a vibrant, energetic feel. Once I returned from Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley I would explore Cusco more thoroughly, even with the daunting altitude.
I did not really know what I was going to get when I booked my two week trip to Peru. But what I gained was warm, smiling, seemingly satisfied people. Food that was simple, beautifully presented, cheap and fresh and scenery that was as spectacular as it was varied and inspiring.
Whenever I head out on a solo trip, it always begins with anticipation and anxiousness…Will I be safe? What will I discover? Will it be as I had hoped? What will be the greatest thing I will learn? Will I be the very best guest I can be?
On my flight to Lima I sat next to a recent college graduate. She and some family friends were going to hike the Inca Trail for four days culminating in their visit to Machu Picchu to celebrate her father’s suicide. She had done no homework on what she was getting ready to embark on, but I have to say that now that I have visited Machu Picchu I totally understand why the family would want to honor their father this way.
I landed in Lima at 5:30 a.m. local time and once I arrived at the hotel I dropped my bags and just walked. Diving right in is the best way I have found to overcome jet lag and capitalize on the newness of my destination. I was staying in Miraflores which is a safe, upscale part of Lima. The streets are clean, teaming with walkers and fortified with singing birds and beautiful gardens. I also walked in Barranco, which is considered an artsy neighborhood, right next door to Miraflores. The weather was perfect at 70 degrees and I got to reinvigorate my Spanish!
The next morning at 4 a.m. my taxi arrived to take me to the bus station so that I could head south to Ica, Nazca, Paracas and Huacachina. It was a four hour bus ride south to take me to the desert and coast. When I arrived, I was immediately driven to a tiny airport to view the Nazca lines. 17 mysterious etchings in the ground can be viewed best by plane. It is about 30 minute plane ride with then 30 minutes viewing the various drawings. It was fascinating, although the plane ride was a nail biter in a tiny four-seater!
Greece has been on my bucket list for years and I finally made it happen this year. I spent 15 days in four islands and Athens. I was mesmerized by the beauty, the great food, the generous, hospitable people, clean streets, many cats and great shopping. I am not a shopper by nature, but I was surprised to learn how many things are made in Greece. I flew from Portland direct to LHR in 9.5 hours and then an additional 3.5 hours to Athens.
Once I landed in Athens at 2 a.m. I stayed at a hotel near the airport so that I could catch a morning flight to Naxos. Naxos boasts an airport that is literally one room, which was a great foreshadow to how small and quaint this island would be. We stayed in a wonderful hotel which was located right on the beach. The rooms were spotless and well-appointed, the staff was extremely attentive and the authentic breakfast made me never want to leave!
One day I took the bus to Naxos Town and visited the Gates of Apollo, shopped in the beautiful alleys and winding streets and had a wonderful terrace, sea-facing lunch. Naxos Town was a bustling little area that had a wonderful harbor and lots of interesting shops. I really loved Naxos!
After four nights in Naxos I took the ferry to Paros. The ferry is a bit unorganized and seemingly always late, but it is a relatively easy way to commute island to island. Paros was another great island with cute, whitewashed towns with winding alleys, interesting shops and good food. Paros Town had a walking promenade lined with mainly restaurants and shops, which was a great to stroll once the hot day moved to the cooler evening.
We ventured to the beach with a $20 taxi ride and then took a fishing boat/ferry to the town of Naoussa, which was where I had one of the best lunches of my trip! The tomato caper salad was to die for! Again this walk-worthy town was beautiful with upscale shops and alleys that allowed you to meander in the mid-day sun.
An easy daytrip from Paros is the island of Antiparos. Arriving by boat is the only way to get there and there is rumor that Tom Hanks has a house on the island. I loved this island, too. We had a leisurely lunch on the water and walked around for the afternoon. Next time, I might be tempted to stay here instead of Paros.
After three nights, we hopped on the ferry to Santorini. All the pictures you might have seen of this beautiful island are TRUE. After arriving at the ferry port, it is an uphill climb on this island. We stayed in Imerovigli and it was amazing. The view of our hotel was breathtaking and honestly the views from just about anywhere are stunning. We also did a sunset cruise and although it was a bit disorganized, it was great to get close to the caldera and be on the open water. Our best dinner of the trip was in Santorini. It was comprised of tasty food, wonderful hospitality and a dash of showmanship!
I then flew to Athens for my last three nights. I stayed in Plaka at a wonderful apartment. I did not expect to love Athens as much as I did. After all, I expected an old, dirty city with crowds and little charm. But what I found was the exact opposite! Athens is CLEAN, has beautiful gardens, great food, shopping and of course, history! I could see myself living in this city for six months and really exploring it.
Greece far exceeded my expectations. Greece is easy to navigate and English is spoken everywhere, which makes traveling easier. But by far, Greece is about great food, wonderful people and amazing scenery. I have many destinations on my travel list, but Greece might be a place I visit again, very soon!
Cold nights and semi-warm days is Palm Springs in December. This trip was the fifth December trip to Palm Springs and I was able to get out and hike, which was great. Managed four hikes including the Coachella Valley Preserve, which although in the middle of nowhere, was fascinating. It sits on the San Andreas fault line and the water that seeps through the earth creates enough water for these palm trees to grow in the middle of the sandy desert.
I spent the week on the Long Beach Peninsula in Washington. On top of no crowds, the scenery was stunning. 28 miles of white, sandy beaches coupled with some easy hikes to North Head Lighthouse, Cape Disappointment and Oysterville and a horse ride on the beach. It was a relaxing, beautiful week!
On the complete opposite spectrum from Japan is Vietnam. This was my second trip to Vietnam. My first trip was ten years ago and I only visited Hanoi. This trip I visited Hanoi, Da Nang, Hue, Hoi An and Ho Chi Minh City. Covering so much of Vietnam meant a lot of plane rides as the roads make for slow travel in Vietnam.
Vietnam is chaotic, noisy and unorganized. Although I noticed a lot more cars this time around, the motor bikes (and their honking) are ever present. Crossing the road is an act of death-defying activity. People use their horns as a second language. But at the same time, their is a warmness to the country that makes the visit worthwhile.
Hanoi’s Old Quarter is vastly different from HCMC’s wide boulevards and colonial architecture. I liked HCMC right away (if only because it was so different from Hanoi). Hoi An was a little slower and amazingly well preserved given how old the town is. Vietnam’s craftsmanship is evident in both Hanoi and Hoi An. There is beautiful clothing, leather and wood items. Life happens on the streets and a “restaurant” can be set up on pretty much any sidewalk. It is amazing how anything and everything can be done on a motorbike, including a mid-day nap!
I felt like Vietnam is at a crossroad. There is evidence of lots of development and the presence of more cars means wealth is being built (at least for some). But there is still a lot of poverty and the need for infrastructure. I do hope that Vietnam moving into modern times will not ruin the beauty of the country.
I just returned from a fabulous trip in Japan and Vietnam. I am posting the two countries separately for easier reading. The two countries could not be further apart in experiences. Both countries are great and incredibly different. Japan is orderly, polite, clean and very interesting. I visited Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka. The trains are super efficient (and very reasonably priced). They take their toilets pretty seriously (check out the photo of the control panel). And although Japan has a reputation for being very expensive it is pretty easy to eat on a budget and most tourist attractions are no cost. A week in Japan is certainly not enough time but was enough to whet my appetite for a return visit!
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