Vicksburg, MS to Camden, AL

Posted on by Seniye Groff

The night was filled with thunder, lightening and rain. So much rain that the hotel’s kitchen flooded so breakfast was a minimal affair. There was even a tornado watch, but fortunately it did not materialize. I drove 235 miles today which took me from Vicksburg to Jackson and then Camden (yes, I crossed the Alabama line).

Jackson was on my list because I wanted to visit the Mississippi Civil Rights Museum. I got a bonus of visiting the Museum of Mississippi History since they are housed in the same modern, architecturally-interesting building. The focus of the museum is the civil rights movement in Mississippi from 1945-1970. There were eight galleries that each focused on a topic. In the middle was a beautiful, colorful rotunda that highlighted the names of Blacks killed (as opposed to lynched which was in one of the galleries). The amount of information presented was overwhelming at times but the photos, films and multimedia presentations helped make the concepts more digestible.

I was fortunate to meet Hezekiah Watkins while I was in the museum. He shared his story of being arrested at the age of 13 because he entered the bus station entrance that was for whites only. In reality his friend pushed him but that detail was irrelevant to the police. He was sent to prison without a trial or even informing his mother. He was later released because JFK got involved with the Mississippi governor at the time. Mr. Watkins joined the Freedom Riders and was arrested 109 times! Watkins was nonchalant and humble and we talked openly about the state of the country today as racism continues. He wrote a book, “Pushing Forward” and I cannot wait to read it.

This is a ceiling of one of the galleries

The Museum of Mississippi History shared nine galleries beginning with13,000 BC to joining the U.S., the cotton era and so much more. Although not as riveting as the Civil Rights Museum, it was interesting and the displays were informative.

I then drove around downtown Jackson. It was quiet and spotless and had a lot of beautiful buildings. I was surprised how quiet it was on a Saturday morning – truly not a soul around.

At 3 p.m. I landed in Camden, AL, which is truly in the middle of nowhere. But it is the jumping off point for tomorrow’s adventure: Gee’s Bend to see the Heritage Trail and Heritage Builders.

Shreveport, LA to Vicksburg, MS

Posted on by Seniye Groff

I arrived in Shreveport, LA around 3 p.m. yesterday and found my historic B&B called Fairfield Place. It was a large manor from the 1800’s. It was nestled in the Fairfield Historic District where old, large homes reined. I took Pete for several walks just to look at the houses (and even though they are large and historic many were priced in the $200’s which compared to Portland is insane).

Once we were settled I headed with Pete to R. W. Norton Art Gallery and Botanical Gardens. Although Pete was not allowed in the gallery, we were able to walk the incredible gardens. It is important to note that the gallery and gardens are in the middle of a picturesque neighborhood of homes. We then drove to the Riverfront to see the Red River. It was pretty touristy and the main attractions are the casinos so a drive-by was all I needed.

I decided to focus on B&Bs while in the south because they are often steeped with history given they originated as a manor or plantation house. For example, Ruthie (an employee at the B&B) grew up in Shreveport on the plantation that her father was an overseer for. I have to say I had the best night of sleep last night and John (the owner) provided a large breakfast before I took off.

John highly recommended the Louisiana State Exhibit Museum so I visited. It was fascinating and one of the best museums I’ve seen. There were 22 very detailed dioramas made with wax depicting life in Louisiana, focusing on agriculture (sugar cane, fishing, farming) and business (oil, glass, textiles and clay for dishes). The building was round so visitors walked in a circle replicating the passage of time. There were displays of other artifacts, too. I did not realize that Libbey Glass was in Shreveport (closed in 2020). The executive director was a wealth of knowledge and her pride of Louisiana was evident.

I drove 190 miles to Vicksburg, MS. Vicksburg was on my radar because a good friend mentioned the Vicksburg Civil War Museum that should not be missed. It is the only Civil War museum owned by a Black man and his knowledge is unmatched. Unfortunately, when I arrived it was closed. I will try again tomorrow. I drove around town looking at all the historical buildings and grand homes instead.

I’m staying at another B&B named Inn at Cedar Grove. It’s pretty spectacular and the current owners saved it from being demolished. It is majestic and I’m told it has a ghost (hopefully it won’t visit me!). Tomorrow after breakfast I am taking a house tour and will learn even more history.

I am getting the hang of driving long distances every day. Pete still doesn’t love it. I will say the worst thing about the driving is the truckers on the road. They are dangerous and sometimes don’t see the cars on the road or swerve around (maybe from fatigue). Defensive driving is key! The other thing I am noticing on my travels is the pride displayed wherever I go. Every person I talk to believes their area is the best place to live and are very proud to be from there. I think that is pretty awesome.

Tulsa, OK

Posted on by Seniye Groff

Today I drove about an hour and forty-five minutes to Tulsa. I went to the Greenwood Rising Black Wall Street History Center in Tulsa. It shared the story of Greenwood as a successful enclave of Black business until the Tulsa Race Massacre in 1921. This museum created an immersive experience. My favorite was the barbershop where I was able to sit in the barbershop chair and watch holographic barbers talk about early dreams for Greenwood.

The museum shared examples of systemic oppression and asks visitors to commit to racial reconciliation. I loved the message of the museum through media, stories, pictures and interactive displays. The museum does not shy away from the work that still needs to be done by all of us.

http://www.greenwoodrisong.org

I then drove down Route 66.

Afterwards I wandered the downtown area to see the many churches, examples of art deco and numerous murals. Tulsa was very clean but few people are out and about on the streets.

Oklahoma City, OK

Posted on by Seniye Groff

Once I crossed the border into Oklahoma (which I did not even realize because there is no grand announcement or large sign like many other states) I immediately saw Windstar Casino which is quite the vision – look it up! I did a double take.

After digesting it, I was struck with the wide open space on both sides of the highway. Wind turbines were present (another unexpected sight) and the air smelled so sweet and fresh. I took a quick detour to Turner Falls but could not walk it because no dogs are allowed (even though AI told me the opposite). I am learning AI cannot be trusted. I have found so many inaccuracies as I have used it during my travels.

My senses were alerted to all of the unexpected glimpses of Oklahoma. I love how travel can oh so quickly dispel the false notions of what is my head about a place! The surprises continued as I reached downtown. The city is beyond clean (like Singapore clean). Just wow!

I am visiting Oklahoma City because my mentee asked me to and I am so glad I did. We met for lunch as soon as I arrived in Norman, Oklahoma. Norman is the cutest town with University of Oklahoma as its main tenant. After a meeting, we met at the dog park. Needless to say, Pete was thrilled to meet all the fun-loving Oklahoma dogs! We then went to dinner in an area called the Paseo Arts District.

After dinner we went downtown since I wanted to see the Clara Luper Sit-In Memorial. I did not know about Clara or what she did. Her bravery was incredible and the bronze life-sized statues were impressive. Afterwards, we went to Tellers. It is a restaurant, hotel, bar and apartments in an old bank building. The bar is in the vault and we had a drink, of course. I also learned that Oklahoma has a sinners tax so be prepared for your liquor bill to have a 13.5% tax on top of the 8.5% sales tax! Thank goodness the building was beautiful, historic and so cool.

The next morning I visited the Oklahoma City National Memorial & Museum, which was a sobering lesson in the Oklahoma City bombing. We walked the site with the ranger and he explained all the thoughtful details that went into designing and building the site including leaving the building wall with its damage exposed and the chairs in the garden that represent all the folks that were killed, including five lined-up chairs that represent the five people outside the building on the street that lost their lives.

I then drove to Myriad Botanical Gardens. Although this is not its prime season, it was still pretty and has a lot of great elements such as the ponds, children’s area, a stage and downtown as its backdrop.

I also drove through Bricktown. Needless to say, the weather has been amazing. My introduction to Oklahoma has been educational and surprising. I am really enjoying this part of the country. Tomorrow I will see Tulsa!

Saguaro National Park East

Posted on by Seniye Groff

Today we ventured to the east NP. This park has an 8 mile one-way loop that takes visitors through the park. There are plenty of lookouts and parking to do some short hikes. This park felt a little wilder with lots of greenery and cacti of the desert (not just saguaro cacti) but not as groomed as its west sister-park. Together visiting both east and west creates a great experience of the Sonoran landscape.

Loews Ventana Canyon Resort

Posted on by Seniye Groff

We were fortunate enough to stay at the Loews resort the week of Christmas. The grounds were beautiful and well-maintained. A short trail led to this amazing natural waterfall (yes, in the desert). Apparently when the resort was built in 1984 it was a priority to leave intact all the saguaro cactus in their original locations and so the resort built around all the natural fauna.

The service and food were great and Carli and I visited the gym daily and even attended a group fitness class – the instructor was excellent. We also took advantage of a tennis class. Prosecco and Pickleball on Friday night was a hit!

A large Koi pond was next to the check-in desk and food to feed the fish was provided. The koi know exactly when someone shows up to feed them and wait patiently for the food to be tossed.

As usual, Pete received a lot of attention wherever we went and Pete was quick to uncover where he would receive treats and directed his daily walks on the routes that were guaranteed for treats!

Sabino Canyon

Posted on by Seniye Groff

A short drive from where I’m staying is Sabino Canyon. Eight dollars gets you all day admission and you could easily spend that time on the paved path, the numerous trails and the open-air tram, if walking isn’t your thing.

Mountains littered with cacti, a stream and dry bed river areas make this area beautiful with a desert existence. There is so much beauty in Tucson and it’s so different from Portland!