I recently visited Vancouver, BC and hiked Garibaldi Lake. It was a 12 mile, 3211 elevation gain well-maintained trail. There was lots of switchbacks, inclines and three stunning lakes. The trail culminates in the magnificent Garibaldi Lake. This was a tiring, at times grueling hike, but well worth the effort!
I just returned from a week in London. As a lover of historical fiction, London has been on my must-travel list for years. I am not sure why it took me so long to get there. London did not disappoint. I think one of my favorite things was all the nook and crannies you can find in London…in other words a great city to just wander.
I loved the mix of old and new, the liveliness of the streets, the friendliness of the people and most surprisingly, the fantastic food! I walked over 20,000 steps a day, visited some fantastic museums and got to see a play on the West End. The weather was very similar to Portland with teasing of spring weather, a few downpours and mostly grey, drizzly weather. Overall, just a fantastic week!
I often get asked why I like to travel so much and especially why I mainly travel solo. Well, in truth it’s all about THE FOOD! I say that in jest, but food is a big motivator. I actually love to see how the food, culture and history converge in the various places I visit. A recent example is Peru. I expected typical Latin fare but what I found was food infused with influences from China, Japan, Spain, Africa and Western Europe. When I dived into Peru’s history, I learned that each of the people from these cultures were a part of Peru’s past (and present) and naturally brought their food and ways of cooking with them.
Travel also allows me to meet new people and hear their stories and perspectives. When I hear new perspectives it allows me to question my own viewpoint or even add to my own views and lens…which is a gift by any measure. When we are not on auto pilot, we are open to different ways of being and doing and so I truly love the element of discovery that travel naturally brings to the traveler.
I, probably similar to any other avid traveler, have a running list of travel destinations I want to visit. I do seem to add more destinations rather than cross off…another great advantage of traveling! I often meet people while traveling and listen to their travel stories, which in turn inspires me to add the destination. I did my first oversees solo trip in 2018 and it was incredibly empowering. I only planned the first two nights of the trip and the remainder of the trip was completely ad hoc. I figured planning the first two nights allowed me to conquer my jet lag and get my bearings, but once I was at full throttle, I was at full “take it all in” mode. All I knew was the day I needed to depart and it was a free for all for the two weeks in between. I got lost…so many times! I felt uncomfortable…so many times! I landed in areas that were not on my radar and learned so much about the area, the people and frankly my own resiliency. Travel allows this and so much more.
The last major stop on my two week trip was the Amazon. I honestly did not know what to expect but I will admit I was a little nervous. I was primarily scared about the animals, insects and heat. I flew a quick 45 minute flight from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado. When I landed I was immediately hit by the heat and humidity. A taxi collected me and took be to a dock about 20 minutes away. The boat I was traveling an hour and half up the Madre de Dios River was surprisingly (scarily!!!!) small and simple.
I arrived at the lodge without incident (whew) and had lunch. The chef focused on Amazonian fare and it was simple but tasty. I was concerned to learn that we had no electricity, hot water or internet…okay maybe we really were in the jungle. My “hut” was clean and ample with no windows (just screens) and lots of mosquitos. I will admit it was quaint but I did question what exactly I had signed up for. After lunch we did a jungle walk. There were tons of interesting plants and trees, lots of birds singing and screeching and, of course, plenty of tarantulas.
After dark, we got back into the boat to do a night tour of the shores of the river. We saw several Caiman (alligator family) which were black and white. I have to say I am glad we did not see anything else! At night the jungle is even louder than during the day. And the jungle “talks” all night long with so many different sounds. Also the fauna drops leaves (or ?) all night long, as I heard it on my thatched roof throughout the night. Not having windows means you are truly in the middle of the jungle as an active participant. I truly cannot describe it and wish I had recorded it. It was also pitch black.
The next morning after a delicious breakfast, we took the boat an hour downriver to the Tambopata National Reserve. After entering the reserve we walked a path about 45 minutes to the entry point of Lake Sandoval where we got into a paddle boat. The lake is quite large and lush with trees and palm trees. We saw tons of birds, bugs and squirrel monkeys and more Caiman. As beautiful as it was, I was nervous. There were five of us in this paddle boat and one wrong move and we would be dumped into the lake which was full of fish and more importantly, piranha. After two hours in the boat, it started pouring…it is the rainy season in the jungle after all and we were pretty lucky that it didn’t rain at all the previous day.
The rain was relentless and so we pulled to the shore where there were some random steps. After an uphill climb, we landed at a home/bar/restaurant where we were going to eat our lunch. And then about another hour and half of pouring rain, which we decided to wait out. The paddle boat was filled with rainwater when we got back to it. Nine hours on this adventure was plenty and a cold shower when finally getting back to the lodge was pretty welcomed! The entire evening and next morning it poured, thundered and lightning lit up the sky and it was a long boat ride back to the dock in Puerto Maldonado. But I made it and had a quick hour and half plane ride back to my last night in Lima.
After the amazing revelation of Machu Picchu, you would think it’s time to go home…what could top that after all??!! In reality probably not much but I actually had another week in Peru! Because I missed my tour earlier in the week due to altitude sickness (which I was still fighting), I hired a guide to take me through the Sacred Valley…and Sacred it is! It is stunningly beautiful with the variations of soil colors, the surrounding mountains and overall lushness.
I first visited Ollantaytambo and wandered the tiny stone streets that existed since pre-Incan days. I got to see a typical original home where dirt floors, no electricity or plumbing and lots of guinea pigs existed as pets until it was time to eat them! Ollantaytambo is another spectacular Incan site. Again it was perched on the side of a mountain, which the Incans made accommodations for as they determined where there crops should be grown.
I then headed to Moray. This was a very interesting agricultural testing ground and the concentric circle design was very cool. Then onto Maras. The town of Maras is similar to being in Italy or Portugal…quaint stone homes on clean streets and it actually had lots of character. I learned that 500 families own the salt flats and they work it like a cooperative. They work the salt flats six months of the year and then farm the remaining six months of the year.
We then trekked to Chinchero for a preplanned lunch. I think being vegetarian is perplexing for the guides and restaurants. I was given a salad and a sweet potato puree and a very sweet chocolate cake. It was fine but my guides licked their meat-laden plates clean!
This day was supposed to include a waterfall hike but my head just couldn’t imagine doing anything strenuous so, instead, I asked the taxi to head back to Cusco, an hour and a half scenic drive. It was a great day overall.
Machu Picchu deserves a post all by itself. The train ride from Ollantaytambo was easy; the train is clean, modern and efficient and an hour and a half later I arrived in Machu Picchu Pueblo (also referred to as Agua Calientes). My entry time to MP was 7-8 a.m. and the 30 minute bus ride up to the entrance was organized and gave me a glimpse of the splendor to come!
Everywhere in Peru, it seems, means stairs and Machu Picchu is no exception. Just getting to the entrance and the initial lookout was challenging, especially with the altitude. We then headed to La Montana to do a hike up the mountain that that looks down on MP cuidad. This is also a timed entry and required an additional fee. Again the steepness coupled with the altitude made this very challenging even with me being an experienced hiker. The stone steps were various sizes and heights. In places the path is quite narrow but there were some fabulous viewpoints.
Once down the mountain, one must go up again to reach MP cuidad. But honestly MP is indescribable. The magnitude of the surrounding mountains and the architectural feat of what they Incas built (and at that altitude and steepness) is just mesmerizing. The Incas were amazingly smart and forward-thinking. The way they captured water, positioned their buildings and storage and determined their crops is like nothing else I have ever seen (and I have seen lots of ruins in multiple countries like Italy, Turkey and Greece).
After an overnight in Lima, I headed to the airport to fly to Cusco. I have to admit that I was worried about the altitude at 11,000 feet and how I would react. When I landed I immediately got a headache but proceeded with my itinerary. I visited Sacsayhuaman, Quenqo, Puca Pucara and Tambomachay, as well as, the Cathedral. This meant going to an even higher elevation and walking about five miles. I was feeling relatively fine…until that evening when my head felt like it would explode and I was throwing up. I frankly could barely move and ended up being hooked to an oxygen tank overnight. It was brutal and scary. I missed my tour the next morning and my visit to Machu Picchu was at risk with the timed entry system I needed to make my day/time or not get in. At noon I decided to catch a taxi for the hour and a half journey to the train station that would take me to the Machu Picchu Pueblo. I definitely was at “half mast” but was also motivated to see Machu Picchu.
My initial impressions of Cusco made me want to learn more. There was plenty of history but also a vibrant, energetic feel. Once I returned from Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley I would explore Cusco more thoroughly, even with the daunting altitude.
The people…
The food…
The scenery…
I did not really know what I was going to get when I booked my two week trip to Peru. But what I gained was warm, smiling, seemingly satisfied people. Food that was simple, beautifully presented, cheap and fresh and scenery that was as spectacular as it was varied and inspiring.
Whenever I head out on a solo trip, it always begins with anticipation and anxiousness…Will I be safe? What will I discover? Will it be as I had hoped? What will be the greatest thing I will learn? Will I be the very best guest I can be?
On my flight to Lima I sat next to a recent college graduate. She and some family friends were going to hike the Inca Trail for four days culminating in their visit to Machu Picchu to celebrate her father’s suicide. She had done no homework on what she was getting ready to embark on, but I have to say that now that I have visited Machu Picchu I totally understand why the family would want to honor their father this way.
I landed in Lima at 5:30 a.m. local time and once I arrived at the hotel I dropped my bags and just walked. Diving right in is the best way I have found to overcome jet lag and capitalize on the newness of my destination. I was staying in Miraflores which is a safe, upscale part of Lima. The streets are clean, teaming with walkers and fortified with singing birds and beautiful gardens. I also walked in Barranco, which is considered an artsy neighborhood, right next door to Miraflores. The weather was perfect at 70 degrees and I got to reinvigorate my Spanish!
The next morning at 4 a.m. my taxi arrived to take me to the bus station so that I could head south to Ica, Nazca, Paracas and Huacachina. It was a four hour bus ride south to take me to the desert and coast. When I arrived, I was immediately driven to a tiny airport to view the Nazca lines. 17 mysterious etchings in the ground can be viewed best by plane. It is about 30 minute plane ride with then 30 minutes viewing the various drawings. It was fascinating, although the plane ride was a nail biter in a tiny four-seater!
Greece has been on my bucket list for years and I finally made it happen this year. I spent 15 days in four islands and Athens. I was mesmerized by the beauty, the great food, the generous, hospitable people, clean streets, many cats and great shopping. I am not a shopper by nature, but I was surprised to learn how many things are made in Greece. I flew from Portland direct to LHR in 9.5 hours and then an additional 3.5 hours to Athens.
Once I landed in Athens at 2 a.m. I stayed at a hotel near the airport so that I could catch a morning flight to Naxos. Naxos boasts an airport that is literally one room, which was a great foreshadow to how small and quaint this island would be. We stayed in a wonderful hotel which was located right on the beach. The rooms were spotless and well-appointed, the staff was extremely attentive and the authentic breakfast made me never want to leave!
One day I took the bus to Naxos Town and visited the Gates of Apollo, shopped in the beautiful alleys and winding streets and had a wonderful terrace, sea-facing lunch. Naxos Town was a bustling little area that had a wonderful harbor and lots of interesting shops. I really loved Naxos!
After four nights in Naxos I took the ferry to Paros. The ferry is a bit unorganized and seemingly always late, but it is a relatively easy way to commute island to island. Paros was another great island with cute, whitewashed towns with winding alleys, interesting shops and good food. Paros Town had a walking promenade lined with mainly restaurants and shops, which was a great to stroll once the hot day moved to the cooler evening.
We ventured to the beach with a $20 taxi ride and then took a fishing boat/ferry to the town of Naoussa, which was where I had one of the best lunches of my trip! The tomato caper salad was to die for! Again this walk-worthy town was beautiful with upscale shops and alleys that allowed you to meander in the mid-day sun.
An easy daytrip from Paros is the island of Antiparos. Arriving by boat is the only way to get there and there is rumor that Tom Hanks has a house on the island. I loved this island, too. We had a leisurely lunch on the water and walked around for the afternoon. Next time, I might be tempted to stay here instead of Paros.
After three nights, we hopped on the ferry to Santorini. All the pictures you might have seen of this beautiful island are TRUE. After arriving at the ferry port, it is an uphill climb on this island. We stayed in Imerovigli and it was amazing. The view of our hotel was breathtaking and honestly the views from just about anywhere are stunning. We also did a sunset cruise and although it was a bit disorganized, it was great to get close to the caldera and be on the open water. Our best dinner of the trip was in Santorini. It was comprised of tasty food, wonderful hospitality and a dash of showmanship!
I then flew to Athens for my last three nights. I stayed in Plaka at a wonderful apartment. I did not expect to love Athens as much as I did. After all, I expected an old, dirty city with crowds and little charm. But what I found was the exact opposite! Athens is CLEAN, has beautiful gardens, great food, shopping and of course, history! I could see myself living in this city for six months and really exploring it.
Greece far exceeded my expectations. Greece is easy to navigate and English is spoken everywhere, which makes traveling easier. But by far, Greece is about great food, wonderful people and amazing scenery. I have many destinations on my travel list, but Greece might be a place I visit again, very soon!
Cold nights and semi-warm days is Palm Springs in December. This trip was the fifth December trip to Palm Springs and I was able to get out and hike, which was great. Managed four hikes including the Coachella Valley Preserve, which although in the middle of nowhere, was fascinating. It sits on the San Andreas fault line and the water that seeps through the earth creates enough water for these palm trees to grow in the middle of the sandy desert.
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