Today my daughter and I decided to hike on the Marin side of the bay. This was a 4 mile trail that had us traveling through gentle hills of greenery and rock and ultimately landing us on the coast of Tennessee Beach. We brought Pete but then noticed a no dog sign. We spotted a few dogs ahead of us so we brought Pete along. We kept him on the trail and leashed but his nose was busy so there must have been scents of animals. All Trails said there were deer, coyote and birds spotted in the area.
Even though cars were lined up down the road from the trailhead, the trail was actually pretty empty. We noticed lots of offshoot trails and many cyclists so we guessed the plentiful number of trails dispersed the crowds. Picnic tables and benches were strategically placed in several areas. Overall, this was a lovely way to spend a Sunday morning.
Carmel is approximately a two-hour drive from San Francisco and an easy getaway from the city. Carmel’s reputation as a storybook, quaint town is well-deserved and accurate. We stayed a few blocks from Carmel Beach, which is considered one of the cleanest beaches in the world. The sand was white and the thunderous waves were littered with surfers.
We stayed at a pet-friendly hotel, but were not allowed to leave Pete in the room alone, which meant we were limited on what we could do. It worked out fine because Pete garnered tons of attention anywhere we went. When we arrived on Friday, we went straight to the beach and Pete rolled in the sand nonstop. We then wandered downtown, snacked on some made-to-order beignets and chose a seafood restaurant for dinner.
The next morning was a bit rainy but after breakfast and coffee we walked to the beach. Instead of the hike we planned to do, which Pete could not join, we drove along the stunning coast, Monterey and Mission Ranch. We then returned to Carmel and hunkered down at a wine bar for wine and a snack. We purchased a bottle and went next door to an amazing cheese shop for lunch-worthy snacks, made a quick stop for some more beignets and then returned to our room to wait out the rainy afternoon. It felt decadent and exactly the right thing to do.
Later that afternoon, we walked down to the beach and meandered an hour further along the coast, returned to our room and ordered takeout sushi. Our final morning we grabbed coffee and returned to the beach so that Pete could have his final roll in the sand. We stopped in Palo Alto on our way home for lunch and a quick mall saunter. It was a fantastic weekend with my daughter!
Walk through any European city and there is always a gaggle of amazing churches adorned with stained glass, gold and other embellishments. After visiting these churches I think to myself, “Surely the next church cannot be as spectacular as this one.” And yet, it is as spectacular…or even better. This is how I feel about California. Every area I visit, I think, “Wow, this is so beautiful. There cannot possibly be anything more beautiful.” I then go somewhere else, like today’s trip to Point Reyes National Seashore. On my drive to the park, I see lush rolling hills, grazing cows, a large reservoir covered with fog (even though sun is everywhere else), tons of bramble and cyclists galore. Another beautiful place with curvy roads included (of course).
The entry point to the park is Point Reyes Station, a quaint main street with shops and cafes. I drive through town and make the 45 minute trek to the Point Reyes Lighthouse. The views of Point Reyes Beach South are stunning. The lighthouse is closed so I avoid the 313 steps down and then up again and head to Chimney Rock and then Drakes Beach. Pete is not allowed on either so I do a quick walk along Drakes Beach and move on.
Next up, Limantour Beach. A easy walk through beach grass lands us on a long length of sandy beach. Tons of families playing, picnicking and running their kites litter the beach. Dogs are allowed on the south end of the beach so that’s where we go. Pete immediately rolls in the sand with gusto. There is nothing better than a roll in the sand, as far as Pete is concerned!
After the beach rolling, we drive along Tomales Bay, which includes the “required” stop to take a picture of the famous shipwreck. Underwhelming (the boat not the bay) in my opinion, but I did it. I did not visit the cypress tree because I was ready for a late lunch! I headed out of the park and north on CA-1 to Marshall. Hog Island Oysters was packed so I drove more north to Nick’s Cove. Pete and I sat outside on the deck/pier and enjoyed more sun and fish and chips. It truly was a perfect day.
Today I hiked the Batteries to Bluffs Trail. The sweeping ocean views and bonus of walking on the beach coupled with the Golden Gate Bridge in the background made this hike a stellar one. The weather was perfect; I should have worn sunscreen! I even managed to find a mussel shell for my friend who makes art from the shells. I never really noticed mussel shells until I saw her work. Now, I think they are beautiful and am always looking for shells to send to her.
Since I was so close to the Golden Gate Bridge I decided to explore it. There are a lot of great displays about this engineering feat and of course, the views were stunning. I walked the bridge to Marin (1.7 miles each way) and then back to the visitor center. I highly recommend earplugs if you ever do this walk. There were throngs of tourists but the walk over the bridge was not that crowded with walkers but there were plenty of bicyclists.
It is funny that all it takes is a routine to feel comfortable and at home. At least that seems to be the case with me. I located my gym and it is only a thirty minute walk each way. I have found my grocery store and most importantly, landed many options for Pete’s daily walks. I see Steven (the valet at the Fairmont) daily so that Pete can gather his treat and I have met people, and know their names, from my daily visits at the dog park.
The process of wandering is not only learning about the new places I visit, but also learning about myself, too. Building a community is important to me and these daily achievements help make that happen. I have learned that the daily minutiae of crap doesn’t end just because I am wandering; I am still spending parts of my days dealing with daily living stuff.
Today I met with friends of a friend. Meeting new people allows me to hear new perspectives. We met this morning at the boat house at Golden Gate Park. Golden Gate is larger than Central Park and we saw some really cool art installations on a pedestrian-only area of the park. When I meet people that have lived in the city for 30 plus years, I learn their favorite spots, as well as, their perspective on what works and what doesn’t in their hometown. I saw the park through their eyes (and it was splendid!).
I don’t want you to think I don’t make mistakes, though. Today, after our walk I tried to return back to my rented studio…big mistake! With Fleet Week and a North Beach festival happening, there was not only no parking but many streets were shut down. After driving around for an hour trying to find a parking space, I decided to return to the Golden Gate Park area. Pete and I investigated Lincoln Park and found the Lincoln Park steps. We also walked around Lands End. Basically, I was trying to burn time.
At 5 p.m. I returned but to no avail…still no spots. Fortunately, Carli’s friend took my car and found a spot in her neighborhood since she will be using my car tonight, anyway. Thank goodness Pete is easygoing. I will be more careful going forward on noting events and when I should and shouldn’t use my car!
I am really enjoying this wandering thing. It’s nice to explore, learn new things and not be too pressed for time. Pete seems to be enjoying it, too, especially all the stops at the beaches. It was another big day for driving and seeing things and the weather is much better today.
We started in Eureka which has a super cute downtown area with shops, cafes and a harbor. We then drove about an hour to the northern entrance of the Avenue of the Giants. Parts of the drive through the ancient redwoods is so dark you would think it was nighttime! The sheer number of giant redwoods clustered in this 31 mile drive is truly amazing.
Shortly after exiting the redwood drive, I hopped on Highway 1. It was 30 miles of soft serve ice cream curves…in other words, very, very curvy. And no guardrails which is always a nail biter. But after 30 miles you are popped right out to the ocean cliffs. The views are stunning and the waves were powerful. We stopped at Seaside Beach. Just more loud waves, more rocks jutting out of the water and more beauty for free. I was also able to find a few mussel shells for my friend Jenny. She does amazing art with mussel shells.
We passed through Fort Bragg and returned later to have lunch at Sea Pals (more fish and chips) and walk at MacKerricher State Park and Glass Beach. But before that we wandered the Mendocino downtown area. It’s a quaint downtown right on a cliff overlooking the Pacific Ocean with water towers sprinkled throughout the town. I stopped at the visitor center to learn a little history. The town (unincorporated) still uses them today since the source of water is wells. The towers are now powered by electricity. Mendocino can be sunny one minute and then the fog rolls in and visibility is nil. Pete and I are ready for a nap!
Today was a big driving day because the weather was wet and windy and did not lend itself to walking outside a lot. I have realized that when one is traveling with a dog it limits what you can do indoors. I cannot sit in a restaurant (so takeout is the go-to) and when the weather is lousy I can’t lounge in a bookstore for hours on end.
Nonetheless we saw a lot. We left the hotel by 8 a.m. because the rain was scheduled to start at 11 a.m. This plan proved to be wise because Bandon Beach was BEAUTIFUL this morning and the sun was shining. We started at Cocquille Point, walked down the stairs and to the beach. Jutting rocks were everywhere. Pete was unimpressed by the giant puffin statue made from debris. Pete immediately rolled in the sand…over and over again. He truly loves the beach. We walked the length of the beach and then returned to the car to continue down the 101.
Port Orford was next. It was a quaint town focused on art. We stopped at the Battle Rocks Wayside Park for the stunning views and then moved on to Gold Beach. Gold Beach is where the Rogue River and the ocean meet. We stopped quickly at a viewpoint but then moved on as the weather was very wet.
On the way to Brookings we stopped along the Samuel Boardman State Scenic Corridor and decided it was time for fish and chips. Happy Clam did not disappoint.
Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park was next on the route. We stopped at the ranger station to get a map and will do the Avenue of the Giants tomorrow. The trail I really wanted to walk was just too wet and muddy and I really wasn’t prepared. The stunning drive through the park was dark as the trees were amazingly tall.
Next up was Trinidad, which is a small town of about 300 people. It had a beautiful bay overlook but no access to a beach we could walk. By now my butt was hurting and Pete was tired of being a passenger so we found a hotel in Arcata and called it a night! Overall the drive along the 101 is mesmerizing with its stunning views, rock formations and crashing waves.
There is no doubt that travel apps make travel easier, from planning to in-the-moment needs. I have some favorites and I tend to gravitate towards apps that are easy to use and relatively inexpensive. Loyalty programs apps are automatically part of my toolbox because it makes it easy to accumulate and use points within the app. The loyalty programs I have are Bonvoy (Marriot) and World of Hyatt (Hyatt). And of course airline apps are a no brainer. My go-to apps are Alaska and Delta.
For transportation I have Uber, Lyft and Grab (great in Asia). These apps are all pretty straightforward and simple to use. I also have the Clipper card app which makes paying for mass transit super simple. One app that is crazy useful is Rome2Rio. The directions to get from one location to the other with a mix of mass transit, taxi, driving, walking and even a town car just cannot be beat! It also outlines the time, cost and miles for each option.
Translation apps are key for effective communication and I like Translate and Google Translate. It doesn’t get easier to translate written or spoken words with either of these apps. I especially love the camera feature that allows the user to take a picture of text and the apps translates it. So easy!
I use Expedia and Booking for last minute hotels and Airbnb when I am planning ahead for lodging. I recently downloaded Hotel Tonight and am excited to try it out on my upcoming wandering journey. Since I will travel from Arizona to Georgia and will be in a different city/town each night and won’t really be able to predict where I will be specifically the app should be helpful…the joy of slow travel.
Currency is easily converted using the Xe app.
With my new AAA membership, I downloaded the app and look forward to to using the TripTik Planner. The app also has a section showing nearby gas stations with the cost per gallon. Hopefully I won’t need it, but I can easily request roadside assistance through the app, too.
CBP MPC is a free mobile passport control app. It allows users to submit their passport info and answer custom declaration questions electronically which will get you through customs faster.
AllTrails is my preferred app to use when hiking and I am sure as I stop to see different things along my journey, I will use this app to catch a hike or two along my way.
And finally my Libby app allows me to borrow and download audiobooks from the library. I will use this as I drive miles and miles along the highways on my upcoming trip.
Mt. Rainer has been on my must-do-list for a long time. As my time in Oregon and the Pacific Northwest winds down, I am a bit more urgent about achieving some of those must-visit goals. Mt. Rainer did not disappoint. Fairly last minute, I was able to get a hotel room at the Whittaker Hotel & Bunkhouse. The nightly rate was “reasonable” given high season, the rooms were rustic and the staff friendly. I also liked that the hotel was an homage to Lou Whittaker, who died in Ashford at the age of 96 and summited Mt. Rainer at the age of 12!
I left Portland at 6 a.m. and went right to the park, with no timed entry at the Nisqually pass. I started at the visitor center and did the Skyline Loop (5.5 miles). This loop trail is the quintessential Paradise area trail. It starts at the main visitor area up through subalpine meadows. Along the way I viewed Mount Rainier, glaciers, Panorama Point, Myrtle Falls and the Tatoosh Range, with glimpses of Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens. It was full sun exposure with 1700+ elevation gain AND beautiful!
On day two, I hiked Tipsoo Lake and the Naches Trailto Dewey Lake (about 5 miles) in the morning. Wildflowers and four different lakes rewarded me with the challenging uphill climb. And, of course, Mt. Rainer was present from all angles.
Reflection Lake to Narada Falls on the Lakes Trail Loop (about 6 miles). This large lake was another beauty with Mt. Rainier front and center (and its reflection on the lake) but the real reward were the multiple falls on the Lakes Trail Loop.
I met several people along the way that could not believe the natural beauty that I live in daily. I agree the world is a beautiful place and the lush, green forest coupled with larger than life mountains makes the Pacific Northwest a pretty special place.
After White Sands National Park I did a mish-mash of things including a visit to El Paso, a hike in Slot Canyon and more time in the downtown Las Cruces. It was a great way to end my fabulous, quick getaway.
seniyegroff 