hiking

Four Days in Asheville

Posted on by Seniye Groff

Asheville is an easy three hour drive from Atlanta which includes driving through north Georgia, a sliver of South Carolina and landing in western North Carolina. I planned it so we would arrive in Asheville for a late lunch and then have time to meander and orient myself before our reservation at Rhubarb at 6 p.m.

As I expected for a city of its size, Asheville was easy to navigate. I found the Center for Craft, which introduced me to the robust and active arts and crafts community in Asheville. This amazing space believes “Craft is for Everyone” with materials ranging from glass, yarns, paper, pottery and so much more. There is a library of craft-focused books, a materials exploration area and even a co-working space.

I then moved on to the Asheville Urban Trail. This self-directed tour invites the visitor to learn about Asheville’s history by walking downtown and finding sculptures, reading plaques and listening to online audio clips with an online map. It was a great way to learn my way around and get a feel for the influences that shaped Asheville. I noticed immediately that Asheville is very clean with not a drop of litter anywhere (even though there are homeless folks around, garbage is disposed of properly).

The next morning, we drove 13 miles to Black Mountain, a quaint town with shops and galleries. We landed at Cousins Cuban Cafe for some excellent cafe con leche and a guava and cheese pastelito. After enjoying my Cuban decadence, we drove to the River Arts District (RAD). This warehouse district along the French Broad River is perfect for strolling, exploring and taking in all the creativity this city prides itself in. The river also has an esplanade where runners, walkers and dogs seem to congregate. The multi-street area contained galleries, studios and cafes. Apparently this district was quite devastated during Hurricane Helene and continues to rebuild and improve. It was fabulous.

Next up was the Biltmore Estate. The expansive grounds of over 40 acres included the house, conservatory and gardens, a winery with tasting room, hotel and event space with exhibitions (currently King Tut’s tomb and treasures). We took the audio tour of the house, walked the gardens and viewed the King Tut exhibit. The house displayed such opulence and told the story of the Vanderbilt legacy.

Once back to the hotel, I walked to the historic Grove Arcade before dinner. I did not go to shop, but instead to look at this amazing Art Deco building. Built in 1929 I felt the quality of the structure and the grandeur of the time. The arched glass roof was truly beautiful. Dinner at Chestnut did not disappoint. The lobster bisque was divine. This restaurant is housed in another old, beautiful building and I love how Asheville has preserved the past by keeping these historic buildings around.

The next day focused on the outdoors as Asheville is surrounded with the Blue Ridge Parkway and the Pisgah National Forest. The fog over the rolling hills of the Blue Ridge Mountains is serene and we drove just a snippet of this 469 mile trek. There were multiple overlooks that allowed us to stop and take in the breathtaking views. We lunched in Brevard at The Square Root. After lunch we hunted down two different waterfalls, drove through the Pisgah National Forest, looped back on the Blue Ridge Parkway and landed back in Asheville for our final dinner at Curate. This tapas restaurant was amazing. The eggplant with honey and rosemary will be on my mind for a long time!

On our drive out of town the next morning, we drove through west Asheville and stopped at Owl Bakery. The breads and pastries were excellent (try the Pasteis de Nata) and landed at Biscuit Head for breakfast. Biscuit Head’s mantra is, “Put some South in your mouth” and I recommend you do just that. On our way back to Atlanta, we stopped in Greenville, SC. It has a lively downtown area along the river. I will definitely head there for a separate long weekend of exploration as this city is on my list to investigate.

Gee’s Bend

Posted on by Seniye Groff

This morning I left Camden (goodbye!) and headed to Gee’s Bend. Gee’s Bend refers to the area historically known as Gee’s Bend (but currently listed as Boykin, AL on maps). This is an extremely remote area with not even a coffee shop. I did drive by an assembly of double wide trailers with a Hunting Club sign. Private. Keep out. Clearly hunters outweigh coffee drinkers here.

My friend told me about this area a couple of years ago and I was intrigued. The quilters of Gee’s Bend are currently residing in the area or are descendants of folks from that area. The Quilters Collective is located within Boykin. These quilts have received worldwide acclaim.

https://www.geesbend.org/history-of-gees-bend

My plan was to complete the self-guided tour and then meet up with one of the quilters. The signage isn’t great so it took me a bit to find it (and a few phone calls to my friend). Unfortunately, the person I was supposed to meet did not show up so I drove around and read the panels and looked at the beautiful photos of the quilts. I had forgotten that Sundays in the South are extremely quiet. I am sure my quilting meeting would have happened if it were not a Sunday.

My plan was to move on to Selma and I secured a short-term rental for the night. It was about a 45 minute drive and I arrived around noon in Selma. The perimeter of the city was lovely so I was really surprised when I drove down Broad Street. Buildings were empty, boarded up and some were falling down. Glass was everywhere. I couldn’t imagine leaving my rental at night (even during the day was sketchy). I decided to walk Pete over the famous Edmund Pettus Bridge. As I was walking over the bridge I realized I did not feel comfortable enough to stay the night.

My dilemma became what to do next. The three museums I wanted to see in Montgomery are closed Monday and Tuesday, which meant Sunday until Wednesday I would need to figure out how to fill the time. I looked at the map and realized a drive to Atlanta would only be about 3.5 hours. And so that is what I did.

With travel, flexibility is key and with a car I can pivot easily. Pete is thrilled to be out of the car and running around in a large backyard. I look forward to creating a routine and digging deeper into Atlanta. I can visit Montgomery during a day trip or a quick overnighter while I am here.

Saguaro National Park East

Posted on by Seniye Groff

Today we ventured to the east NP. This park has an 8 mile one-way loop that takes visitors through the park. There are plenty of lookouts and parking to do some short hikes. This park felt a little wilder with lots of greenery and cacti of the desert (not just saguaro cacti) but not as groomed as its west sister-park. Together visiting both east and west creates a great experience of the Sonoran landscape.

Tennessee Valley Trail

Posted on by Seniye Groff

Today my daughter and I decided to hike on the Marin side of the bay. This was a 4 mile trail that had us traveling through gentle hills of greenery and rock and ultimately landing us on the coast of Tennessee Beach. We brought Pete but then noticed a no dog sign. We spotted a few dogs ahead of us so we brought Pete along. We kept him on the trail and leashed but his nose was busy so there must have been scents of animals. All Trails said there were deer, coyote and birds spotted in the area.

Even though cars were lined up down the road from the trailhead, the trail was actually pretty empty. We noticed lots of offshoot trails and many cyclists so we guessed the plentiful number of trails dispersed the crowds. Picnic tables and benches were strategically placed in several areas. Overall, this was a lovely way to spend a Sunday morning.

Weekend in Carmel-by-the-Sea

Posted on by Seniye Groff

Carmel is approximately a two-hour drive from San Francisco and an easy getaway from the city. Carmel’s reputation as a storybook, quaint town is well-deserved and accurate. We stayed a few blocks from Carmel Beach, which is considered one of the cleanest beaches in the world. The sand was white and the thunderous waves were littered with surfers.

We stayed at a pet-friendly hotel, but were not allowed to leave Pete in the room alone, which meant we were limited on what we could do. It worked out fine because Pete garnered tons of attention anywhere we went. When we arrived on Friday, we went straight to the beach and Pete rolled in the sand nonstop. We then wandered downtown, snacked on some made-to-order beignets and chose a seafood restaurant for dinner.

The next morning was a bit rainy but after breakfast and coffee we walked to the beach. Instead of the hike we planned to do, which Pete could not join, we drove along the stunning coast, Monterey and Mission Ranch. We then returned to Carmel and hunkered down at a wine bar for wine and a snack. We purchased a bottle and went next door to an amazing cheese shop for lunch-worthy snacks, made a quick stop for some more beignets and then returned to our room to wait out the rainy afternoon. It felt decadent and exactly the right thing to do.

Later that afternoon, we walked down to the beach and meandered an hour further along the coast, returned to our room and ordered takeout sushi. Our final morning we grabbed coffee and returned to the beach so that Pete could have his final roll in the sand. We stopped in Palo Alto on our way home for lunch and a quick mall saunter. It was a fantastic weekend with my daughter!

Point Reyes National Seashore

Posted on by Seniye Groff

Another epic day!

Walk through any European city and there is always a gaggle of amazing churches adorned with stained glass, gold and other embellishments. After visiting these churches I think to myself, “Surely the next church cannot be as spectacular as this one.” And yet, it is as spectacular…or even better. This is how I feel about California. Every area I visit, I think, “Wow, this is so beautiful. There cannot possibly be anything more beautiful.” I then go somewhere else, like today’s trip to Point Reyes National Seashore. On my drive to the park, I see lush rolling hills, grazing cows, a large reservoir covered with fog (even though sun is everywhere else), tons of bramble and cyclists galore. Another beautiful place with curvy roads included (of course).

The entry point to the park is Point Reyes Station, a quaint main street with shops and cafes. I drive through town and make the 45 minute trek to the Point Reyes Lighthouse. The views of Point Reyes Beach South are stunning. The lighthouse is closed so I avoid the 313 steps down and then up again and head to Chimney Rock and then Drakes Beach. Pete is not allowed on either so I do a quick walk along Drakes Beach and move on.

Next up, Limantour Beach. A easy walk through beach grass lands us on a long length of sandy beach. Tons of families playing, picnicking and running their kites litter the beach. Dogs are allowed on the south end of the beach so that’s where we go. Pete immediately rolls in the sand with gusto. There is nothing better than a roll in the sand, as far as Pete is concerned!

After the beach rolling, we drive along Tomales Bay, which includes the “required” stop to take a picture of the famous shipwreck. Underwhelming (the boat not the bay) in my opinion, but I did it. I did not visit the cypress tree because I was ready for a late lunch! I headed out of the park and north on CA-1 to Marshall. Hog Island Oysters was packed so I drove more north to Nick’s Cove. Pete and I sat outside on the deck/pier and enjoyed more sun and fish and chips. It truly was a perfect day.

Hike + Golden Gate Bridge

Posted on by Seniye Groff

Today I hiked the Batteries to Bluffs Trail. The sweeping ocean views and bonus of walking on the beach coupled with the Golden Gate Bridge in the background made this hike a stellar one. The weather was perfect; I should have worn sunscreen! I even managed to find a mussel shell for my friend who makes art from the shells. I never really noticed mussel shells until I saw her work. Now, I think they are beautiful and am always looking for shells to send to her.

Since I was so close to the Golden Gate Bridge I decided to explore it. There are a lot of great displays about this engineering feat and of course, the views were stunning. I walked the bridge to Marin (1.7 miles each way) and then back to the visitor center. I highly recommend earplugs if you ever do this walk. There were throngs of tourists but the walk over the bridge was not that crowded with walkers but there were plenty of bicyclists.

It’s All an Adventure

Posted on by Seniye Groff

It is funny that all it takes is a routine to feel comfortable and at home. At least that seems to be the case with me. I located my gym and it is only a thirty minute walk each way. I have found my grocery store and most importantly, landed many options for Pete’s daily walks. I see Steven (the valet at the Fairmont) daily so that Pete can gather his treat and I have met people, and know their names, from my daily visits at the dog park.

The process of wandering is not only learning about the new places I visit, but also learning about myself, too. Building a community is important to me and these daily achievements help make that happen. I have learned that the daily minutiae of crap doesn’t end just because I am wandering; I am still spending parts of my days dealing with daily living stuff.

Today I met with friends of a friend. Meeting new people allows me to hear new perspectives. We met this morning at the boat house at Golden Gate Park. Golden Gate is larger than Central Park and we saw some really cool art installations on a pedestrian-only area of the park. When I meet people that have lived in the city for 30 plus years, I learn their favorite spots, as well as, their perspective on what works and what doesn’t in their hometown. I saw the park through their eyes (and it was splendid!).

I don’t want you to think I don’t make mistakes, though. Today, after our walk I tried to return back to my rented studio…big mistake! With Fleet Week and a North Beach festival happening, there was not only no parking but many streets were shut down. After driving around for an hour trying to find a parking space, I decided to return to the Golden Gate Park area. Pete and I investigated Lincoln Park and found the Lincoln Park steps. We also walked around Lands End. Basically, I was trying to burn time.

At 5 p.m. I returned but to no avail…still no spots. Fortunately, Carli’s friend took my car and found a spot in her neighborhood since she will be using my car tonight, anyway. Thank goodness Pete is easygoing. I will be more careful going forward on noting events and when I should and shouldn’t use my car!

Day Three of Wandering

Posted on by Seniye Groff

I am really enjoying this wandering thing. It’s nice to explore, learn new things and not be too pressed for time. Pete seems to be enjoying it, too, especially all the stops at the beaches. It was another big day for driving and seeing things and the weather is much better today.

We started in Eureka which has a super cute downtown area with shops, cafes and a harbor. We then drove about an hour to the northern entrance of the Avenue of the Giants. Parts of the drive through the ancient redwoods is so dark you would think it was nighttime! The sheer number of giant redwoods clustered in this 31 mile drive is truly amazing.

Shortly after exiting the redwood drive, I hopped on Highway 1. It was 30 miles of soft serve ice cream curves…in other words, very, very curvy. And no guardrails which is always a nail biter. But after 30 miles you are popped right out to the ocean cliffs. The views are stunning and the waves were powerful. We stopped at Seaside Beach. Just more loud waves, more rocks jutting out of the water and more beauty for free. I was also able to find a few mussel shells for my friend Jenny. She does amazing art with mussel shells.

We passed through Fort Bragg and returned later to have lunch at Sea Pals (more fish and chips) and walk at MacKerricher State Park and Glass Beach. But before that we wandered the Mendocino downtown area. It’s a quaint downtown right on a cliff overlooking the Pacific Ocean with water towers sprinkled throughout the town. I stopped at the visitor center to learn a little history. The town (unincorporated) still uses them today since the source of water is wells. The towers are now powered by electricity. Mendocino can be sunny one minute and then the fog rolls in and visibility is nil. Pete and I are ready for a nap!

Day Two of Wandering

Posted on by Seniye Groff

Today was a big driving day because the weather was wet and windy and did not lend itself to walking outside a lot. I have realized that when one is traveling with a dog it limits what you can do indoors. I cannot sit in a restaurant (so takeout is the go-to) and when the weather is lousy I can’t lounge in a bookstore for hours on end.

Nonetheless we saw a lot. We left the hotel by 8 a.m. because the rain was scheduled to start at 11 a.m. This plan proved to be wise because Bandon Beach was BEAUTIFUL this morning and the sun was shining. We started at Cocquille Point, walked down the stairs and to the beach. Jutting rocks were everywhere. Pete was unimpressed by the giant puffin statue made from debris. Pete immediately rolled in the sand…over and over again. He truly loves the beach. We walked the length of the beach and then returned to the car to continue down the 101.

Port Orford was next. It was a quaint town focused on art. We stopped at the Battle Rocks Wayside Park for the stunning views and then moved on to Gold Beach. Gold Beach is where the Rogue River and the ocean meet. We stopped quickly at a viewpoint but then moved on as the weather was very wet.

On the way to Brookings we stopped along the Samuel Boardman State Scenic Corridor and decided it was time for fish and chips. Happy Clam did not disappoint.

Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park was next on the route. We stopped at the ranger station to get a map and will do the Avenue of the Giants tomorrow. The trail I really wanted to walk was just too wet and muddy and I really wasn’t prepared. The stunning drive through the park was dark as the trees were amazingly tall.

Next up was Trinidad, which is a small town of about 300 people. It had a beautiful bay overlook but no access to a beach we could walk. By now my butt was hurting and Pete was tired of being a passenger so we found a hotel in Arcata and called it a night! Overall the drive along the 101 is mesmerizing with its stunning views, rock formations and crashing waves.