Hotlanta!

I’ve been in Atlanta less than three weeks and it feels like months. Granted, I’ve been busy cleaning, organizing and running errands. But a routine is forming, too. I joined a gym for the next three months and it offers a bevvy of activities such as open play Pickleball, Barre, Pilates, Yoga and even trivia night (which we placed third – amazingly – given my lack of erroneous knowledge).


My day starts (and ends) with walking three dogs…wowzah! Anyone watching must be waiting for a catastrophe to happen. All three dogs sleep with me nightly, too. I am wedged in the corner of the bed – the dogs sleep comfortably.

Being in one place means being able to cook again. Yesterday at the grocery store, I felt a tap on my shoulder. When I turned, someone kindly said, “You are beautiful”. Whoa, that hasn’t happened in 30 years!

I’ve met several Turkish people. That never happens. I recognized the language immediately and one of them is helping me reinvigorate my lacking command of the language.

I survived the ice storm. We lost power for four hours and ice coated the roads. The daytime highs range from 16 to 28 degrees…not exactly the warm, Southern weather I anticipated. Snow is forecasted again for this Saturday but should not be as debilitating as the ice.

I am getting braver about driving here. Yes, I drove across the country but am timid in Atlanta due to the myriad of the spiderweb tangle of I-285, I-20, I-75 and I-85 and the smaller side roads like 140. It’s intimidating but I will figure it out since next week my car is being serviced. I will drive the farthest distance, yet, in the city.

This weekend we are renting a U-Haul to move belongings from an assisted living unit to the storage unit. Once this happens, I should have more time to explore Atlanta and beyond. My immediate exploration list includes Asheville (scheduled for February 26-March 1), Charleston, New Orleans and Montgomery (to see The Legacy Museum).

Life is not flawless (even if social media tries to convince us otherwise) and my experimental journey stretches me on a daily basis. But I know that I am lucky to have this freedom and am enjoying this unburdened time. Having a stopping point for three months is a great break from being in a different location nightly. I have a temporary address so I can complete some larger tasks. Come visit me.

Gee’s Bend

This morning I left Camden (goodbye!) and headed to Gee’s Bend. Gee’s Bend refers to the area historically known as Gee’s Bend (but currently listed as Boykin, AL on maps). This is an extremely remote area with not even a coffee shop. I did drive by an assembly of double wide trailers with a Hunting Club sign. Private. Keep out. Clearly hunters outweigh coffee drinkers here.

My friend told me about this area a couple of years ago and I was intrigued. The quilters of Gee’s Bend are currently residing in the area or are descendants of folks from that area. The Quilters Collective is located within Boykin. These quilts have received worldwide acclaim.

https://www.geesbend.org/history-of-gees-bend

My plan was to complete the self-guided tour and then meet up with one of the quilters. The signage isn’t great so it took me a bit to find it (and a few phone calls to my friend). Unfortunately, the person I was supposed to meet did not show up so I drove around and read the panels and looked at the beautiful photos of the quilts. I had forgotten that Sundays in the South are extremely quiet. I am sure my quilting meeting would have happened if it were not a Sunday.

My plan was to move on to Selma and I secured a short-term rental for the night. It was about a 45 minute drive and I arrived around noon in Selma. The perimeter of the city was lovely so I was really surprised when I drove down Broad Street. Buildings were empty, boarded up and some were falling down. Glass was everywhere. I couldn’t imagine leaving my rental at night (even during the day was sketchy). I decided to walk Pete over the famous Edmund Pettus Bridge. As I was walking over the bridge I realized I did not feel comfortable enough to stay the night.

My dilemma became what to do next. The three museums I wanted to see in Montgomery are closed Monday and Tuesday, which meant Sunday until Wednesday I would need to figure out how to fill the time. I looked at the map and realized a drive to Atlanta would only be about 3.5 hours. And so that is what I did.

With travel, flexibility is key and with a car I can pivot easily. Pete is thrilled to be out of the car and running around in a large backyard. I look forward to creating a routine and digging deeper into Atlanta. I can visit Montgomery during a day trip or a quick overnighter while I am here.

Vicksburg, MS to Camden, AL

The night was filled with thunder, lightening and rain. So much rain that the hotel’s kitchen flooded so breakfast was a minimal affair. There was even a tornado watch, but fortunately it did not materialize. I drove 235 miles today which took me from Vicksburg to Jackson and then Camden (yes, I crossed the Alabama line).

Jackson was on my list because I wanted to visit the Mississippi Civil Rights Museum. I got a bonus of visiting the Museum of Mississippi History since they are housed in the same modern, architecturally-interesting building. The focus of the museum is the civil rights movement in Mississippi from 1945-1970. There were eight galleries that each focused on a topic. In the middle was a beautiful, colorful rotunda that highlighted the names of Blacks killed (as opposed to lynched which was in one of the galleries). The amount of information presented was overwhelming at times but the photos, films and multimedia presentations helped make the concepts more digestible.

I was fortunate to meet Hezekiah Watkins while I was in the museum. He shared his story of being arrested at the age of 13 because he entered the bus station entrance that was for whites only. In reality his friend pushed him but that detail was irrelevant to the police. He was sent to prison without a trial or even informing his mother. He was later released because JFK got involved with the Mississippi governor at the time. Mr. Watkins joined the Freedom Riders and was arrested 109 times! Watkins was nonchalant and humble and we talked openly about the state of the country today as racism continues. He wrote a book, “Pushing Forward” and I cannot wait to read it.

The Museum of Mississippi History shared nine galleries beginning with13,000 BC to joining the U.S., the cotton era and so much more. Although not as riveting as the Civil Rights Museum, it was interesting and the displays were informative.

I then drove around downtown Jackson. It was quiet and spotless and had a lot of beautiful buildings. I was surprised how quiet it was on a Saturday morning – truly not a soul around.

At 3 p.m. I landed in Camden, AL, which is truly in the middle of nowhere. But it is the jumping off point for tomorrow’s adventure: Gee’s Bend to see the Heritage Trail and Heritage Builders.

Halloween

Today was a day of random experiences. It started with Twin Peaks. The view is unmatched (and so is the lack of parking). I will definitely visit again and try to find parking and hike to the top.

I then visited Buena Vista Park. This park has elevation, lots of tall trees and impressive views.

And finally I was on Grove Street in The Haight for Halloween. Yes, I walked Haight Ashbury and saw all the shops but more impressive were the beautiful Victorian homes. I then met up with a friend of a friend to hand out Halloween candy. But this was no ordinary event! The streets were shut off to cars, there was a band, lights and hundreds of pounds of candy. I was told that this is one of the primary areas kids come and trick or treat. And they showed up! Even Pete got into the action by licking any kid that got close enough while reaching into the candy bowl. The costumes were impressive and I loved seeing the sense of community.

Wave Organ + Palace of Fine Arts

I have created a little routine that on Tuesdays, which is street cleaning day, I go grocery shopping during the cleaning time slot (8 a.m.). Once that task was completed, I decided Pete and I would find the nearest post office to mail a package and then cross some must-see items off my list. Today was Wave Organ and Palace of Fine Arts. It ended up being a six mile walk and Pete got a romp on the beach, too.

Wave Organ was a bit of a hike, out onto a jetty by the yacht club, and a very interesting concept. I did not hear the “music” since the waves are just too loud. But I suspect that if I stayed for a few hours I might be able to pick up on the nuanced sounds. Pete was more interested in rolling around on the beach next to the “organ” so we spent the majority of our time doing that.

We then walked to the Palace of Fine Arts. It is a beautiful piece of architecture with its Greek-style colonnades and soaring central rotunda. It is larger than you would think, too. It is quintessential San Francisco and is now used for events and lots of wedding photos!

Day Four of Wandering

Today should be called the day of driving. I drove from Mendocino to Bodega Bay. It took about three and a half hours to drive there and the first 30 miles were hairpin curves. Bodega Bay was a bit underwhelming. It’s tiny and really no central downtown area. I don’t think it was really worth the drive but now I know. At least I found some good fish and chips (day three in a row)!

I considered driving to Point Reyes National Seashore (which is what I should have done instead of Bodega Bay) but frankly Pete and I had enough of driving so we drove straight to San Francisco which took about an hour and a half. I have to admit that while I was driving over the Golden Gate Bridge and saw the city in the distance I got a little emotional. I got emotional for two reasons. The first reason is that I realized this was the longest drive I have done by myself (except for two weeks in Portugal). Secondly, arriving in this city marked the beginning of my second half journey. The house is sold, my six weeks of being a nomad across Portland is over. I’ve left my cocoon of familiarity. This is truly the first step of formulating my second half rewrite.

My short term rental was easy to find but parking was not! Fortunately my host was very helpful. I unloaded the car and then headed a block away to a fantastic dog park. Pete was shy at first but then he jumped right in with the 30+ other dogs. It was fun to watch all the dogs run, sniff and get along. I look forward to investigating San Francisco.